NAPLES & POMPEII
























it's been a while! i got back from my italian excursion exactly a week ago and have been enjoying philadelphia and all of the friends i left behind. i haven't forgotten about the blog, though! at least i haven't forgotton permanently...

after i finished up my classes in rome, my mother flew into town and we spent the next few days eating gelato and walking 15 miles per day to see all of the sights in rome. after we waited in line for an hour and a half to see the coloseum in the roman summer heat, we were ready for our next stop: naples.

from what i've heard about naples, it didn't seem like a pretty picture. the reputation of graffiti and crime make it a city that tourists often avoid visiting. there was no way we were missing the pizza in naples though, so off we went.

my initial impression of the city was so different than what i had pictures. the city is so lively and full of energy! drying laundry hangs from all the apartments, the roads are cobbled and impossibly narrow, everyone's nonna sits out on the stoop waiting for conversation and everyone knows everyone. strangely enough, it reminded me a lot of south philly. could this be the italy i'd been looking for all along??

aside from the sense of community, the pizza is obviously reason number one to visit naples. we tried pizza from da michele which was the best, chewiest, freshest pizza i've had in my entire life and sampled pizza from tiny pizzerias all over napless. we blissfully brunched on my favorite pastry, the sfgliatella, and tried to soak in the city. we only got lost in a shady part of town once, so we had nothing to worry about, right mom??

at the end of our first night in naples we experienced a concert in the square next to our apartment, which was 5 tenors singing elvis and U2 in their nice italian vibratos.  the audience was of all ages and very confusing but we enjoyed the music with wine in hand as fireworks went off over the sea (happy fourth of july?).

while in naples, we stopped in pompeii which was so so cool. i learned about the brothels and the tiny phalluses carved into the ground around the city were meant to direct potential clients in the right direction. i wonder why i never read about that in my history textbooks??

_________________________________________________________________________________

things i enjoyed:

da michele // where i had my first omg pizza moment in italy that left me in happy tears.

bourbon tunnel // much to my dismay this was not a tunnel filled with bourbon but rather an expansive underground tunnel system used as shelter from the bombs during world war ii.

augusta's // the best sfogliatella i tried in naples, which is a flaky pastry filled with sweet citrusy cream and chunks of candied fruit that i need some of right now

VENICE










































my time in venice was short and sweet. i was only there for 24 hours, but i felt that was more than enough time to experience everything. i stayed outside the city in mestre, and took the bus over the canals to reach venice. venice is very picturesque, and it's hard to believe anyone actually gets to live there. this might actually be the case since a saw approximately ten people in the whole city who weren't tourists.

the basilica di san marco was breathtaking, and the surrounding piazza was filled with pigeons and tourists. i sipped on bellinis while exploring the streets and canals, and after a few hours i ended up circling back to all of the same places. the island is small, and it doesn't take long to see everything.

am i allowed to say that i wasn't impressed by venice much? there wasn't much to do on the island itself, and all of the restaurants seemed like they catered to tourists. to be fair, i did feel weird traveling alone in such a romantic city without anyone to ride a gondola with me. i did get to go on a waterbus though, which was about 100 euros cheaper. i won't be in a rush to visit venice again anytime soon, although i do wish i would've gotten to the island of verona.

GENEVA




i spent most of last weekend in geneva, switzerland, and let me tell you, there's a reason why the swiss are so happy. geneva was incredibly beautiful with a landscape of mountains from every view point and a crystal clear lake in the middle. really, you can see all the way to the bottom. the city was relaxed and pleasant and everything ran on swiss time which means that busses were on time to the second. how??

we spent most of our time hiking around geneva and nyon, which was a perfect escape from the busy city life. there were cows grazing the mountain on every corner we turned, and you could here the bells around their necks from a mile away. the cows are happy here, maybe that's why the chocolate is so good?

speaking of chocolate, i had the best chocolate of my life in switzerland. i planned to ration my truffles, but i nearly devoured my whole bag by the time i landed back in rome. i would gladly go back and turn over all of the contents of my wallet to the swiss chocolatiers. 

switzerland is super expensive as expected, but they do have a lot to offer visitors for free. the city gives out free bus passes to incoming visitors, free bike rentals in the city, and has a very large botanical gardens that is free entry for anyone. maybe the perks make up for 15 CHF cheeseburgers?

one of the best part of the trips were our hosts, who graciously let us stay with them and helped us get around the city. they were much to kind to us, and it made us feel at home for the weekend.

geneva was a wonderful city, and i would be in a hurry to get back to switzerland if their economy wasn't so damn strong.

_________________________________________________________________________________

favorite things in geneva

frederic ducret  // omg you need this chocolate in your life. i polished of a large slice of chocolate cake and 12 truffles in record time.

le chat noir // supposedly the best jazz club in rome, but they wouldn't let us downstairs to hear the music because we weren't running on swiss time. they had fun, fruity drinks for 15 CHF a piece.

mount saleve // this is actually in france, but we took a bus from geneva to the border where we took cable cars to the top. there are tons of hiking trails, paragliders, and you can see the swiss alps and mont blanc on a good day!

geneva botanical gardens // right in the middle of the city and so cool! plus, it's free.